|

Group Project Instructions for The Drawn Thread's Perennial
Garden

Perennial Garden By Drawn Thread Led by Karin Kersten
As promised we are starting this week with the SAL
Perennial Border. I myself particularly liked this design and after taking a
vote on this board, I found out there were a lot more people who liked to do
this one as well. Considering the time of the year a lot of us will be busy
stitching for Christmas. That's why we are doing this SAL during a period of 8
weeks. The first 4 weeks we will get the Interior (Whitework) gardens finished.
After that we will do one side of the PB each week. This timeframe will still
give us time (hopefully) to do more things besides the SAL. As with my previous
SAL (Alpine Garden) I will make some scans to clarify certain things, and if
there are any questions, please let me know. Any comment is very much
appreciated, that way I know I am not doing this all alone as well.
First week: Step 1 to 4 of the chart. Although I was very much
tempted to start exactly in the middle of the fabric, I decided to follow the
chart, which meant starting with step 1, the cross stitches. Usually I prefer
not to make basting lines, but I decided to make them for this chart, as I
definitely don't like to do any frogging. With some good basting lines, I have
the best way to prevent that.
First start with a basting line both
horizontal and vertical in the middle of the fabric. On the horizontal and
vertical lines I counted out 18 stitches (=36 threads) and made another basting
line. Then I counted another 19 stitches (= 38 threads) and made the next
basting line, which is the bottom line of the border with the flowers.

With the help of these basting lines, it was easy to start
with the top left garden, making all the cross stitches with 2 strands of white.
After finishing the top left garden, I went on and made all the other 3
gardens as well, always starting in the corner of the basting lines.

Step 2 + 3 When the cross stitching is done, we make the
eyelets, only the ones in the gardens. Make them with one strand of white. Watch
out, some of them are over 4 threads, some of them over 6 threads. Then make the
small double cross eyelets in both the upper left and lower right hand gardens.
The diagrams of each of these stitches are clearly defined on the chart, so just
follow the numbers mentioned on the diagrams and you will have no problem.
Step 4 We end this weeks instructions with the Satin stitches in the
upper right and lower left garden. You can do these stitches by railroading.
Railroading is when you are using two strands of silk or floss and when you take
the needle down through the fabric (ie when you are making a satin stitch) you
sort of lay it down straight on the fabric, insert the needle BETWEEN the two
strands and then down through the fabric. The idea is to keep the strands
separate so they lay nice and even and separate on the fabric. You can give it a
try. It really makes two stranded satin stitching look nice.

By now our 4 gardens are finished. This week's instructions
were quite a lot, but the next 3 weeks we will have less to do, so don't worry,
if you have not been able to keep up with us, you will get on top of it within a
few weeks.
Lots of success everyone! Karin Kersten. Hello everyone, It
was great reading the progress of a few ladies on this SAL. And I am sure a lot
of you are waiting for this week's instructions. This week will be less work,
but.... especially step 6 is a bit more complicated.
Step 5: Bands of
satin stitches.

Start at the starting points and make 4 bands of satin
stitches. Each (vertical and horizontal) satin stitch is done with 2 strands of
White over 2 threads of fabric. Watch out at the inner corners, when you change
from making a vertical satin stitch into a horizontal satin stitch and vice
versa. Both the last vertical and the first horizontal stitch use the same top
hole in the fabric.
Step 6 Double Four-sided stitches between the satin
stitch bands. It might look complicated when you look at the diagram, but
after you have stitched step 5, you can clearly see where these double
four-sided stitches should be, yes, between 2 bands of satin stitches. There are
4 groups of these stitches to be done.
You start at the center top and
work from top to bottom for each group. Follow the diagram, and as you will see,
you will have to stitch each leg of this stitch twice, using 1 strand of White.
After the first stitch is finished, you go on with the second stitch. You do
exactly the same as the first stitch, meaning stitching each leg of this stitch
twice, also the top one!! The top one of the second stitch is the bottom one of
the first stitch, so there will be 4 stitches at the same place instead of 2.
Make 7 of the double four-sided stitches per group and it is finished.
It is very important that you pull each leg as tightly as possible, because by
doing this, you will see that you get the little holes.

Step 8. To finish the inner gardens go on with step 8,
being the double cross eyelet in the center of the Whitework garden.
Next week we will do step 7, being the satin stitch vine and leaves
around the gardens. And then, we are going to use some colours, instead of
white!!
I hope the instructions are clear enough and you will all have
fun doing this.
Please keep us all updated to your progress
Karin Kersten (from Holland, where it is raining all the time!!).
Hello everyone, This week we will do the final stitching on the
white work, being the satin stitch vine and the leaves around the gardens.
Step 7 This band consists of satin stitches, again using 2 strands
of White. First we do the complete vine, because when you make a mistake, you
will find that out at the end of the vine. If you already had done all the
leaves at the same time, you might end up frogging everything, something nobody
likes to do. I started the vine at the top, in the middle above the band
with the double four sided stitches. To save you from counting all the satin
stitches, I made the following scan, on which are mentioned the number of satin
stitches you have to make. Watch out in the corners, where there are 2
stitches over 2 threads either next or underneath each other.

When you have finished the vine, make all the leaves. A
detailed diagram of this is mentioned on the chart.
Now all what is left
to do of the whitework are the eyelet stitches in the 4 corners using 1 strand
of White.
As you can see there were not that many instructions for this
week, and I do hope you all can still keep up with our SAL, besides all the
Christmas ornaments, gifts etc. you still have to finish. Keep us informed about
your progress!! Happy stitching Karin Kersten
Hello everyone,
Last week we finished all the instructions for the whitework and this week
we are going to finish the last part of our inside border, being the flower
names.
The instructions for this week are very, very straight forward.
We stitch each flower name with a backstitch using one strand of DMC 3022. You
have to make smyrna cross stitches between each name using the same colour
thread. The only thing I want to warn you about is the following. When
backstitching the names, you tend to hold the fabric in such a way, that you can
read the name easily, (which is easier to stitch), but when working on the sides
and the bottom don't forget to hold up your fabric again for the smyrna cross
stitches. We do want all the stitches done in the same way no matter where they
are located on the fabric. After this the complete inner border is finished.
Hello everyone, This week we are definitely going to use a lot
of colours. I decided to do 4 flowers this week, because once you get started
with the flowers, you like them so much, you want to go on stitching them. And
also because there were some questions about the stitch slant orientation of all
the flowers.
Hydrangea We first start with the leaves, which are
being done in 2 colours of Green, 3051 Dark Olive and 142 Needle Necessities
Grecian Olive. The backstitches of the stems are also done in Dark Olive, so I
decided to do them at the same time as the cross stitches.
Instead of
finishing one colour first before going on to the next colour, I decided to do
them at the same time, because this really helps you with less counting.
So you start at the left with the Dark Olive for the first leaf, then do
the Grecian Olive for the remaining of this leaf, then do the backstitching with
the Dark Olive to go to the next leaf, and then again the Grecian Olive for the
cross stitches and so on.
Don't forget while working with the Needle
Necessities that you have to finish stitch after stitch, as this is an overdyed
thread.
After finishing the leaves we go on with the flowers. I decided
to do first the cross stitches in 3013 Very Light Olive and then add the smyrna
cross stitches in 3688 Bright Pink.
Iris Also this flower we start
with the leaves and the backstitching, both done in DMC 520 Gray Green Dark.
After that we add the flowers in cross stitch with 930 Dark Blue and 932 Medium
Blue. This was an easy flower, and quick to be done.
Achillea This I
feel is the most difficult flower of the whole chart (perhaps because I am not
very good at French knots).
The best thing to do is start with the
backstitching of all the stems in 1 strand 3052 Medium Olive. When you finished
the stems, we add all the little leaves, which are made of small lazy daisy
stitches, also done in Medium Olive. For instructions of the lazy daisy stitch,
look at the diagrams, they are done over 2 threads of fabric.
Then the
most difficult part, the flowers which are worked in large French Knots. Look at
the illustration in your chart and follow the instructions on how to do these
large French knots.
However, if you are not happy with the result, you
can always do smyrna cross stitches instead of the French knot, although the
result will be a little bit different.
I myself am still not very happy
with my result, so I might frog them and do Smyrna cross stitches instead. After
doing these 3 flowers our top border is finished.

Now we are going to do the flowers at the right hand side of
the chart. There have been some questions about the stitch slant orientation.
Okay, it is easier to turn your fabric, so the next border is at the top, and
then you do the stitching, but ..... this is not the way you should do it. All
stitches of the whole chart should be facing the same way, otherwise it would
not look very nice once finished.
Violet Also with this flower we
start with the leaves, and as mentioned above with the hydrangea, I decided to
finish all leaves first and also do at the same time the backstitching. So you
start with two different threads, the 319 Dark Pistachio for the cross stitch
and the backstitching and the 367 Medium Pistachio for the remaining cross
stitches. After the leaves are finished we do the flowers, with lazy daisy
stitches using 1 strand of 3807 Violet. Look carefully at the diagram as they
are different (vertical and diagonal). When the lazy daisy stitches are
finished, we add a little touch by making a small upright cross in the center of
each violet using 1 strand of 676 Light Yellow.

Okay, these were the instructions for this week already. I am
sure you all loved working with the colours and the different stitches. Perhaps
you like it so much, you want to go on and finish it (?).
For those of
you who want to follow this SAL, just 2 more weeks and we will all be finished.
Enjoy this week Karin L. This week we will again do 4 flowers,
leaving only 4 to be left for next week and then we are finished.
Just a
reminder, don't forget to hold your fabric in the right way, so the cross
stitches will all be done in the same way.
Day Lily For the Day Lily
start with the leaves, using 1 strand of Weeks Ivy. After this I started with
the flowers in DMC Orange. As both the stems as well as the stamens are
backstitched in the same colour DMC Dark Olive, I decided to do these after
finishing the flowers. Then add the little cross stitches of Light Yellow. They
are being done over one thread of fabric (!) at the end of each stamen.
Primula Again start with the leaves, doing the two colours at the
same times as explained at the Hydrangea. After that you do the backstitches for
the stems. Then make the cross stitches for the flowers with 1 strand of Weeks
Cyclamen and a smyrna cross stitch in the center of each flower using Light
Yellow.
By now the right hand side of this chart is
finished Anemone This is a very easy flower to do. I decided to do leaves
and backstitches at the same time, as you have to use the same colour of thread,
DMC Dark Hunter.
After that, first do all the cross stitches of the
flowers in DMC White, and at the end, make the cross stitches in each center
with 1 strand of DMC Light Orange.
Lupine It won't be a surprise that
we start again with the leaves and the backstitches in the colour Dark Gray
Green. I did not do the second colour of the leaves at the same time, as we are
also using this colour in the flowers. So first do the leaves and backstitches
in one colour, then the leaves and part of the flowers in the second colour,
being Medium Gray Green.
Then we come to the part with French knots. By
now you all know that I am not comfortable with this stitch, especially as this
will be a small French knot with only 2 wraps. So instead I did do the Smyrna
cross stitch using one strand of Needle Necessities Anemone. For those who have
no problems with it, do the French knot, as the diagram is very clear of how to
do it and where to put them. For those not happy with that, use either a
colonial knot or a Smyrna cross stitch.
These were again all the
instructions for this week. I am curious as to how many of you used French knots
or the smyrna cross stitches. And... how many could not wait till next week and
already finished this one this week.
Looking forward to hear from you
again Happy Stitching Karin Kersten
Hello everyone, Already we
have arrived at the last week of this SAL. This week we will start with the
last flower at the bottom.
ASTER First start with the leaves making
cross stitches using 1 strand of NN Grecian Olive. Backstitch the stems in 1
strand of DMC Dark Olive. After having done this, start making the Asters using
the NN Mystique. Follow the diagram at the chart very carefully. Just a little
warning, don't pull the threads too hard, otherwise it will start looking as an
eyelet and that's not the intention. After finishing these stitches, add a
Smyrna cross stitch in the center of each flower and the bottom part is
finished.
Doesn't this one look great?

PANSY Start working the leaves with both the two colours
Dark Pistachio and Medium Pistachio at the same time. Also do the cross stitches
at the same time as the backstitches, as explained before.
After that
make the lazy daisies, first the four upper daisies in Purple and after they are
finished the bottom daisy in Bright Gold.
HOLLYHOCK Start the leaves
with cross stitches in Weeks Hunter. And after that backstitch the few stems in
DMC Dark Hunter. Now we can start making the flowers, using eyelets in Weeks
Begonia. At the same time when you are making the eyelets, don't forget to make
the few cross stitches in the same colour.
DAISY The final flower is
the Daisy. Again, first make the leaves, using Weeks Blue Spruce, then add the
stems, backstitched in DMC Gray Green Dark.
For the flower we use again
lazy daisy stitches, using DMC White. Watch carefully at the chart where you
position these flowers. The horizontal and vertical daisies are exactly in the
middle of each flower, so there always will be 3 threads between one stitch and
the other.
Having done this, add 4 little cross stitches over one thread
of fabric in the center of each flower. Of course, if you like you can also use
one French knot or a Smyrna cross stitch, but the cross stitches over one give a
more delicate impression.

FINISHED Congratulations, you have now finished stitching
this lovely chart. And you can finish it just the way you like it, either frame
it, make a pillow etc. Let us all know what you are planning to do with it.
I really enjoyed all your reactions the last couple of weeks and am
again looking forward to the next SAL.
Merry Christmas and Happy
Holidays Karin Kersten

Copyright (c) 2008 Beardie Designs. All rights reserved.
info@beardiedesigns.nl
|